Official Luthiers Forum!

Well, it wasn't a shark but it sure looks like it!
A lesson well learned....never take your eyes away from your router

So here's what happened...I was routing my neck flush with the fingerboard, everything went smooth as usual...until I lifted the routed of the fingerboard, looked around to see the floor covered with shavings, when I turned to put the router down and as I moved my arm towards the table...BAM I miss judged the distance and I hit the fingerboard with the router still spinning.....well I guess t he pictures tell the rest of the story....

So I guess the best thing to do is remove the fingerboard and glue on another one.
I was lucky, after all the neck is still intact

Any suggestions for the easiest way to remove the fingerboard? It was glued with titebond yesterday..

Thanks again,

_________________
Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

So sorry to hear and see that Peter, i hope someone will come to the rescue quick, at least you did not get hurt, that's the most important thing

Good luck with the repair!

Serge

I put a towel down on a work bench, lay my heat blanket on it, clamp the neck to the blanket (face down of course) an in about 5 minutes you should be able to unclamp it and peel it right up with a putty knife.

You may then want to clamp the neck to a known flat surface while it cools. Just put a piece of wax paper down so the glue residue doesn't rebond to the clamping surface.   

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Thanks Brock....I'll give it a try

_________________
Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Ouch!

Do you find that you save much time routing the neck flush as opposed to using hand tools? A block plane or spokeshave (and a rasp in the heel and peghead area) make pretty quick work of it, but maybe I'm missing out.

Kelby, I only use the router to trim the neck flush with the fingerboard....after that I use only hand tools and a belt sander...
Goes to show you, it only takes a sec

_________________
Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

This is why the OLF is the best place on the web!

Thanks to Brock's advise I had the fingerboard off the neck and the eck cleaned in less than 10 mins! and to think I was going to use a clothes iron?

Thanks again...

_________________
Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

I used to have s shoe that looked sort of like that. I was standing on a board when the router got loose almost 30 yr ago. I learned a lot about respecting routers that day.

Al

How about a shark inlay? I know you probably have plans for the neck that didn't include one. I bet an inlay artist could fix it up.

_________________
http://www.dickeyguitars.com

shark related inlay.
Just my speed....

(of course others are equally speedy here as well....
Remember the Grit code!! )



Craig L

_________________
www.handcraftinlay.com

Peter, my heart goes out to you man... that kind of thing really hurts.
On the bright side, at least it was now and not later on in the process. A hard lesson, but you won't repeat it.

Brock's suggestion is great for removing it. I can see I'm not the only one who has had to remove one...

_________________
"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Norman Takeya's Shark Bite Uke









From the Ukulele Guild of Hawaii Site

Ever cool!

The shark bite uke was the first to sell at the 2004 UGH Convention.

Peter, there's always a bright side...you could have been flush-trimming the top!    Routing experts always say to never lift a running router off of a workpiece--turn it off and wait 'til the bit stops. I didn't believe them, until I took a bite out of an aluminum straight-edge that I was using as a fence. I still don't know how I did it, but there it was! Made an awful sound (the bit, then me). It was a brand new bit, too.    Luckily, the straight-edge was old and cheap.

[QUOTE=Don Williams] Brock's suggestion is great for removing it. I can see I'm not the only one who has had to remove one...
[/QUOTE]

Yep... sometimes it is one step forward, two steps back.

That is also the lesson that taught me to use tightbond II for bindings as well.   

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Brock, Please explain why you use Titebond II instead of the "Orginal" on bindings as well? Do you use TBII on the fretboard also? Clinton

I use either original titebond or LMI white to put the fingerboard on the neck...(although I have been thinking about giving epoxy a try).

Using titebond II on fingerboard bindings helps because if you have to remove the fretboard they don't delaminate as easily. If you use the same glue for everything once you get enough heat to remove the fretboard from the neck it is usually enough heat to release the bindings from the fingerboard....

ask me how I know...   

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com